Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polyglutamic Acid, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Carbomer, Methylparaben, Triethanolamine,
|Butylene Glycol||moisturizer/humectant, solvent, viscosity controlling||0, 1|
|Glycerin||skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant||0, 0||superstar|
|PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil||emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing|
|Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate||antioxidant, skin brightening||goodie|
|Carbomer||viscosity controlling||0, 1|
|Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer||viscosity controlling|
|Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract||antioxidant, soothing||goodie|
It's Skin power nguồn 10 Formula VC Effector
Also-called: Aqua | What-it-does: solvent
Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
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It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
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Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant, solvent, viscosity controlling | Irritancy: 0
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Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.
BG’s main job is usually khổng lồ be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the hàng hóa to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), và attracting water (humectant) into the skin.
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It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert và is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive.
Glycerin - superstar
Also-called: Glycerol | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0
"> | Comedogenicity: 0
A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective và cheap molecule used for more than 50 yearsNot only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps lớn restore barrierEffective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up khổng lồ 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot)High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>
Polyglutamic Acid - goodie
A natural high-molecular weight aminoacidpolymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that is claimed to lớn have awesome, better than IT-moisturizer HA, skin hydrating properties. It is a film-forming polymer thatimproves both the moisture binding và retention properties of the skin.
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
What-it-does: emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing
A castor oil derived, white, lard-like helper ingredient that is used as a solubilizer to lớn put fragrances (those are oil loving things) into water-based products such as toners.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate - goodie
Also-called: size of vi-ta-min C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP;Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate | What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble size of skincare big shot vi-ta-min C. If you bởi not know, why vi-ta-min C is such a big khuyễn mãi giảm giá in skincare, click here & read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans và have written about it inexcruciating detail.
So now, you know that vitamin C is great và all, but it's really unstable & gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vi-ta-min C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's điện thoại tư vấn it ATIP in short).
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It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, vị not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have khổng lồ beconverted lớn pure vi-ta-min C (ascorbic acid or AA) và the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition,vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in thecase of ATIP, it's in-vitro & done by an ingredient supplier.
With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able lớn do. First, it is stable (if pH pure vi-ta-min Cwill be your best bet).
The most common type offeared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. It's a cheap, effective và well-tolerated ingredient khổng lồ make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon.
Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) showing that when exposed khổng lồ sunlight, MP treated skin cells suffered more harm than non-MPtreated skin cells. The study was not done with real people on real skin but still - using a good sunscreen next to MP containing productsis a good idea. (Well, in fact using a sunscreen is always a good idea. :))
What is true is that if a hàng hóa contains so-called N-nitrogenating agents (e.g.: preservatives lượt thích 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro- 1,3-Dioxane or sodium nitrate - so look out for things with nitro, nitra in the name) that together with TEA can khung some not nice carcinogenic stuff (that is called nitrosamines). But with proper formulation that does not happen, TEA in itself is not a bad guy.
But let’s assume a bad combination of ingredients were used và the nitrosamines formed. :( Even in that case you are probably fine because as far as we know it cannot penetrate the skin.
But khổng lồ be on the safe side, if you see Triethanolamine in an INCI & also something with nitra, nitro in the name of it just skip the product, that cannot hurt.
Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, butAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. Water-hating.
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This means that our molecule is part water- & part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners).
Green tea is one of the most researched natural ingredientsThe active parts are called polyphenols, or more precisely catechins (EGCG being the most abundant & most active catechin)There can be huge unique differences between green tea extracts. The good ones contain 50-90% catechins (and often make the hàng hóa brown and give it a distinctive smell)Green tea is proven to lớn be a great antioxidant, UV protectant, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic and antimicrobialBecause of these awesome properties green tea is a great choice for anti-aging & also for skin diseases including rosacea, acne and atopic dermatitis Read all the geeky details about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract here >>